Odd Couple: Burgers and Wine

by Chef Kirsten Jackson

When you head to the liquor store before firing up the backyard barbecue, there’s probably just one thing on your shopping list: beer. Drinking bubbly barley with homemade burgers is a beloved tradition, but some French wines may be an even better compliment. While subtle Bordeaux wines and feisty bacon cheeseburgers may not be the best match, Southwestern French reds from the Madiran and Cahors regions have enough oomph to take your grilling to the next level.

It’s All About the Tannins

Tannins are a compound that exists naturally in grape skins, seeds and stems. If you’ve ever chewed a grape seed, the bitter taste and fuzzy texture you get in your mouth come from its tannins. Winemakers go to great lengths to avoid the tannin overload that comes when seeds are crushed, but tannins from the skins are desirable because they help preserve the wine while adding to its complexity. They also add astringency that makes wines containing tannins burly enough to stand up to rich, fatty flavors.

As some of the most tannic wines on the market, Madiran and Cahors reds are contenders for the world's burliest wines. Both are crafted in the French Midi-Pyrénées wine region, where they’ve been in production longer than the more famous wines of neighboring Bordeaux. Based on the hearty Tannat grape, Madiran and Cahors wines are dark and tough.

A Nice Complement

These wines were originally crafted to complement the hearty, traditional dishes of southwestern France such as cassoulet (a white bean, garlic sausage and duck confit dish), roasted goose, wild game, foie gras, and spunky sheep milk cheeses from the Pyrenees. Many meaty foods are a natural match for Tannat-based reds — especially summertime favorites like hamburgers.

While beer is the default choice for outdoor cooking, tri-tips, sausages and smoked meats will all benefit from a red wine as rustic as they are. No delicate Pinot Noirs need apply; these meats need a grape with a stronger backbone.

The Scoop on Tannat

Tannat has been taming comfort dishes longer than hamburgers have been the sandwich of choice in the US, but the varietal is experiencing a cooling period. Wines worldwide are becoming softer, smoother and sweeter, due largely to the standard set by ripe, lush, and highly in-demand California wines. With such competition, it has not been uncommon for Madiran and Cahors winemakers to soften their reds’ rough edges in attempt to better cater to the international wine market. By reducing the amount of Tannat and increasing amounts of pliable blending grapes, winemakers make wines that are more approachable on their own.

However, Tannat-based reds are meant to be a little nastier. Most winemakers craft Madiran and Chaors wines to withstand over a decade’s aging. To endure such cellaring, they’ve got to be big, deep and dark. While coarse on their own, their tannins attach to fats and proteins, allowing them to shine with cheeses and heavy meats.

Act Now for Enjoyment Later

For better or worse, it’s likely that traditional Madiran and Cahors winemakers will putting less Tannat in their blends as time goes by. These wines will still be hearty, but they’ll have less spunk to match such dishes as cassoulet.

If you want to taste the amazing range of these wines before they get watered down, buy several bottles of Madiran and Cahors wines from a good year. Set a few aside in a cool, dark place to age for five or so years — with the intention of enjoying them with a beef tenderloin or braised chicken — then treat yourself right by opening a bottle to enjoy with your backyard bounty. Your favorite brew will pale in comparison.