Chefs at Home: Easy, Elegant Mussels

by Chef Victoria McGinley

For one chef, steaming mussels is a quick, simple weeknight meal that satisfies the soul.

I was only seven years old when I first experienced the intoxicating scent of steaming mussels. Of all places, it happened at a sleepover birthday party for a girl in my second grade class. While the kids all gathered in the living room to devour pizza and sodas, a tantalizing scent lured me into the kitchen, where the adults were slurping down steamed mussels cooked in white wine and herbs. Suddenly, pizza didn’t sound (or smell) so good anymore.

It’s the same for me today. Mussels are an inexpensive and quick dinner that feels indulgent and comforting any time of year. By pairing them with some crusty garlic bread and a light salad, you can put together a meal worthy of any French bistro.

Selection and Storage

To start, head to a fish monger you trust. It’s absolutely essential that the mussels you buy are as fresh as possible. Prince Edward Island (also labeled as PEI) mussels are the most readily available in markets. These farmed mussels are a great bet for quality and taste and are quite affordable — most stores sell them for $4 to $6 per pound.

Once purchased, it’s essential to store mussels the right way so they won’t die before you’re ready to cook them. If you plan on steaming them right away or within a few hours, place them in a shallow bowl, cover the bowl with a damp cloth, and store it in the coldest part of your refrigerator.

While it’s always best to eat live shellfish the day you buy it, mussels can be stored for a few days. To properly store mussels, spread them over a tray or baking dish in a single layer, then follow the directions above. You’ll need to re-wet the cloth as it dries out over the next few days.

Bath Time

When you’re ready to cook the mussels, rinse them under cold running water and scrub off any dirt or grit. See any mussels that have opened up? Give these a gentle tap on the kitchen counter and set them aside. In a few minutes, they should close back up. (If this doesn’t do the trick, they’re already dead and must be discarded.)

As you’re scrubbing, you may also notice thin, hair-like strands clumped together and peeking out from the side of the mussels. These hairs are called the beard, and must be removed before cooking. Gently tug on the beard, and it should pull right out. Take note, however: Removing the beard can damage the mussel, so they should never be de-bearded until just before cooking.

Preparing the Broth

After the shellfish have been cleaned, prepare the cooking liquid. Begin with a large, wide pot — the wider the better — as it will allow the mussels to spread out and cook evenly. It’s also important to have a cover that fits your pot; if not, you can always use aluminum foil.

After melting some butter in the pot, add a few tablespoons of finely minced shallot and one clove of minced garlic. Shallots are preferable in this dish because they provide a delicate onion flavor that doesn’t overpower mussels like regular onion could.

Once the shallots become translucent and the garlic is fragrant, pour in several “glugs” of dry white wine, such as pinot grigio or sauvignon blanc. Also add a bit of Dijon mustard and some minced thyme leaves. The mustard gives the broth a zesty tang, while helping thicken it just a bit. When the liquid comes to a boil, add all the mussels. Cover and simmer the mussels for 3-6 minutes, or until they’ve all opened up. Right before taking the mussels off the heat, add in a pat or two of butter to create a silky, luxurious sauce. Finally, discard any mussels that don’t open — these were already dead before cooking.

Dig In!

While the mussels steam, it’s essential that you toast some bread, and rub it with a cut clove of garlic while still piping hot. Then, ladle the mussels (liquid and all) into a big serving bowl or individual dishes. Garnish with a sprinkle of freshly chopped parsley and ground black pepper.

With a slice of crusty bread to soak up all those heavenly juices, you’ll see that my instincts as a kid were right: There’s no finer meal than steamed mussels in white wine.

Mussels with White Wine and Herbs (Moules Mariniere)

4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium shallot, finely minced
1 clove garlic, finely minced
Kosher or sea salt (to taste)
3 teaspoons minced thyme leaves
2 cups dry white wine (pinot grigio or sauvignon blanc)
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 pounds PEI mussels, cleaned, scrubbed and de-bearded
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped flat leaf parsley
Ground black pepper (to taste)
In a large, heavy bottomed pot, melt two tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. Once melted and bubbling, add in the shallot and garlic, season with kosher or sea salt, and cook until the shallots are just translucent (about 1-2 minutes).
Pour in the white wine, and add the 2 teaspoons of the thyme and Dijon mustard. Whisk the mixture together and bring it to a boil.
Add in the mussels, cover the pot and steam for 3-6 minutes, or until most of the mussels have opened up. A minute or so before the mussels are done, add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Finish steaming, then discard any mussels that did not open.
Bowl up the mussels in the serving dish of your choice, then garnish with flat leaf parsley, freshly ground black pepper and the remaining teaspoon of fresh thyme. Serve with crusty bread.